The Prado & lunch @ Botín - a normal Thursday for me...Bucephalus
We met our guide, Cassie, an English lady but a long-term Madrid resident, on a beautiful, warm (to me, anyway, from Scotland) October morning. We met at the Goya statue and met a mixed group of North Americans - all very pleasant, respectful and attentive, however, which helps on a small tour.
The Prado was really enjoyable, particularly as despite the stated 2,000 paintings, we concentrated on viewing 20. That may sound ridiculously low, and I thought so at first, but it enables Cassie to concentrate on the ones that matter, especially with her entwining the paintings into an overall history of Spain. Not the way I'd have chosen to view it but with hindsight, it makes sense and I'm glad she planned it that way.
If I entered the tour guideless, there were some paintings I'd have no interest in and would easily have walked past, but when Cassie framed them in context with other paintings, they became meaningful. As an example, a few days later, I was in the Thyssen museum and had an audio guide, but even standing in front of Holbein's portrait of Henry XIII, a painting I know a fair wee bit about, the audio guide was all surface, just telling me things anyone could see. Juxtaposed to that, Cassie, having studied and having Art History qualifications, added layers to paintings, explaining things like Velazquez's mirror reflections, why, among 5 similar men, ruffs were ostentatious for 4 of them and not the other, and why his hand might be held a particular way. It helped me engage with paintings I'd otherwise have no interest in.
My missus told me after we booked this tour that we could request, if possible, to see a certain painting. I read a review after I got back home which seemed to suggest that that might be the case, but we weren't asked on the day and I'd never have the temerity or hubris to do so. As it happened, I didn't have to. Despite me seeing a few El Greco's I wasn't overly interested in, it helped me get an appreciation for Spanish art overall. Also, the one I really wanted to see, namely Bosch's Garden of Earthly Delights, captivated me and I saw it, and in explained detail. Further, I'd no idea Goya's Saturn Devouring His Son was at the Prado so walking into his Black Paintings room and encountering that, just blew me away. It was humbling to stand in front of that.
We got a 10 minute restroom/visitors centre stop and afterwards, Cassie walked us to Botín, a 35 minute walk away, but while it wasn't overly taxing, it's a fair distance and a couple on our group with a support dog (Duchess - with a beautiful passport photo!) had to get a taxi and that was easily arranged by Cassie, so don't worry about the walk if it sounds bad.
We got to Botín 30 mins before it opened, so had a peaceful private tour of the building - it's somewhat of a Labyrinth. Downstairs first to a dining area, then downstairs again to an old wine cellar, where all the bottles had spoiled, had become covered in mould, but looked great in photos. Back up, beyond the ground floor to above, to encounter Hemmingway's favourite table in the corner, then up again, through tight spaces each time. If that sounds mad enough, look at the photos of rooms and stairwells to see how tight it is, THEN factor in there's no dumb waiters, and staff have to walk past you (they're not impolite, but have no time to wait - you should see the queue outside!) with plates of food.
We were fortunate (maybe not fortune, as I've no idea about other tours - Cassie might have arranged it) to be at a long table right by the entrance. Initially, it wasn't ideal due to the draught and constant traffic of people, but it soon settled down and it beats being upstairs as there's no air conditioning.
The building? Beautiful and historic, as very few are. The staff? Other than serving (Cassie ordered), I never really noticed them, which was good. The food? We had some stunning croquettes, then the finest (also, the only!) artichokes I've ever tried, with some cooked ham through it. There may have been some Padron Peppers, but I may be conflating with other tours we had. With or without the peppers, the starters were beautiful.
The anticipated star of the show was the roast sucking pig. Unless you're veggie or have ethical issues, you can't go to Botín and not try it. There was lamb but I never heard anyone order it. The couple sitting across from us from North Carolina both chose the Hake and it looked beautiful and they both said they enjoyed it. I enjoyed the pig. In the UK, I love hard pork crackling. The skin on the pig, though, was softer, but you could tell it was still cooked for hours and though not hard, still had a lovely crispness to it. The bit of pig I had, had a few ribs but the meat itself was soft and flavoursome. The dessert was was a Basque cheesecake, roundly judged by all as magnificent.
You can't fail to enjoy a tour like this. An educated, curated, history of some fine bits of the Prado, a museum you could easily wander about like an extra from The Walking Dead in and perhaps stumble across the supposed highlights, PLUS entry into a restaurant, with exclusivity & priority, to somewhere you'd otherwise not get a reservation for, for 3 months.
Our thanks to Cassie for a terrific, curated tour, which ensured we were invested, and thanks to the other guests we spoke with for making it pleasant, too.
Fraser & Julie *
* I'd normally write her name first, but this is my review and she may do her own.
