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With great trepidation I scheduled a one-way tour to Dalat, a city at 1500 meters and a place far, far away—completely different from anywhere else I’ve been in Vietnam. But first things first: when scheduling the tour, I found out I’d be going alone with the guide, since nobody else had signed up that day. Easy Riders didn’t try to dissuade me either way; they accommodated me all the way.
I’ve ridden a motorcycle most of my life and feel comfortable in the seat, but riding in the U.S. is completely different than simply crossing the street in Vietnam. I was supposed to be picked up the following morning at 8:15 a.m., and I received a text that my guide had arrived. Looking around, I saw he was on a bike and was going to take me to my bike so we could get acclimated. My guide for the day, Do, got my large butt up on the back, and hanging on for dear life we took a 15-minute ride to get my cycle. Do was very “gentle,” and we made it there unscathed.
After getting my bike and taking a few practice spins up and down the street, we were ready to push off. Following close behind Do through the traffic and roundabouts was an adventure—getting used to the bobbing and weaving of the traffic—and I was looking forward to getting out into the country. Not only were we heading up the mountain, we’d also be sightseeing and experiencing some very interesting cultural events along the way.
Our first stop, not too far from the start, was a little family-run reed-weaving spot—very old school, with three or four generations running the operation. (I bought a few runners for gifts that Do neatly transported for me.) Do explained the process and how they dyed the reeds—very cool technique in the weaving.
Getting back on the bike and being a little bit out of town proved less tense. We stopped at a local bridge that some creative folks had built, creating a shortcut from the one further down the road. The cost was 5,000 VND—about 20 cents—and there was a steady flow of traffic both ways. As we got out of town, Do pointed out some grassy areas where the reeds are harvested and pulled some up to show me.
Next stop was a rice paper “factory,” and definitely a hands-on event. Having consumed the product for 50 years, it was an eye-opener seeing it done this way.
We then stopped for a “do-rag” that Do had spotted after I’d mentioned wanting something for my sweaty head under the helmet. One dollar later, I had a nice headpiece.
By this time it was time for a smoke break and something to drink. With Do’s help, I ordered my first Vietnamese coffee over ice (I’ve always just drunk black hot coffee, by the bucketload), and I immediately became addicted. The condensed milk was caramel in flavor and the drink was full of punch. Nothing like seeing it drip slowly into the white creamy milk, then adding ice and—as Bob Marley said—“stir it up, little darling.”
We then stopped along the way for a demonstration related to sugarcane and for filling up the tank—rest assured, they were two different activities.
Further down the road we took another turn and crossed a neat little bridge. Do explained that this was a resettlement village for some indigenous people from the mountains. The government provided schools, housing, some rations, etc. Do, being a fountain of knowledge, explained that there are 54 different indigenous tribes in Vietnam, and that the South, Central, and North groups were also of different backgrounds. I wish I could remember more details, but when you go on the trip, as they say, “Do knows.”
We stopped a few more times along the way, taking pictures of scenic spots, waterfalls, and other epic views. Do knew all the secret locations and was very thoughtful of this teetering old man.
We stopped at a coffee plantation and tasted some of the berries—very sweet—and the beans popped right out, mucilage and all.
I learned that roasting sweet potatoes was a big thing—and when I made it to Dalat, a really big thing.
After donning the proper outerwear (it was very foggy and wet at the top; the temperature was 64°F), we proceeded to Dalat, stopping a few more times to see the greenhouses (numbering in the tens of thousands) and some interesting temples.
Okay, that’s a partial story led by an amazing guide, who took this city boy into the country and really made my day. Do normally leads 3-, 5-, 7-, and longer-day trips through Vietnam, so he knows his stuff and is very thoughtful of his “passengers.”
